From the outside Izakaya Nonbei is not the type of restaurant you’d imagine would be worthy of any national recognition. The old building off of Kapahulu Avenue that houses this restaurant could probably use a little renovation, but this is one place that truly cannot be judged by its appearance. Inside customers are treated to an excellent menu of Japanese dishes, worthy enough to put Izakaya Nonbei in the October 2002 edition of Gourmet magazine.
The outer appearance of the restaurant, with its plain design and small parking lot, does not do justice to the ambiance within. Once you have walked through the sliding door, you are greeted with a table layout akin to a small inn restaurant in Japan. The deep browns of the wood furnishings and dark counter tops contrast with the light floors and tatami mats. Playing over the speaker system are old fashioned Japanese songs, being sung in traditional vibrato. The overall atmosphere of the restaurant is very fitting, and worthy of mention.
Main counter seating area
Side seating area with tatami mats
Izakaya Nonbei can get pretty crowded at times, so reservations for dinner are recommended. I had called ahead shortly before arriving to get a pair of seats. As soon as we walked into the door we were kindly greeted by one of the servers and immediately directed to our seats. The main dining area is counter top seating forming a long rectangle. There are separate tables available, but those are for larger parties I believe.
When we were seated our server kindly gave us our menus and went over the specials of the night. She then took our drink orders and gave us a few minutes to browse the menu. Izakaya Nonbei offers a variety of different food types, ranging from yakitori to udon. After browsing the menu for a bit we ordered a few menu items to share. As with traditional izakaya establisments, Izaka Nonbei offers a selection of ala carte dishes that are meant to be paired with sake or beer. Although we did not partake in any alcoholic beverages, it is still nice to have the ability to order a variety of small dishes, making for a diverse and fulfilling meal.
Here is what we ordered:
Tori Kare (Fried chicken)
The “tori kare” is a variation on Japanese fried chicken commonly found throughout Hawaii. This particular preparation is slightly different from what I normally experience, as the chicken is not prepared quite as crispy as most. The outer batter does have a slight crunch to it, but the real treat is in the moist and delicious chicken within. While simply seasoned, this dish is very good, especially when complimented with a splash of lemon juice.
Korroke (Deep friend potato hash)
This dish took me back to my younger years when I used to enjoy korroke with my grandparents. This dish is very simple, nothing more than a potato hash that is quickly deep fried for a crisp exterior. The small silver pot contained the tonkatsu sauce that we poured over each korroke. The hot, crisp korroke contained potato and some beef for flavor. The dish is truly delicious when combined with the subtle tangy taste of the tonkatsu sauce.
Salmon Belly Shioyaki
One of the specials for the night was a salmon belly shioyaki, which is a grilled piece of salmon belly lightly seasoned with salt. The grilled salmon was left with the skin on, making for a very crisp exterior to the dish. Complimented with a simple wedge of lemon and grated radish, this dish is wonderful in its simplicity. Care is taken to only lightly season the fish, allowing the natural taste of the salmon belly to be the real star.
Nasu (eggplant)
This hot vegetable dish is a mixture of sliced eggplants and mushrooms served in a ponzu-like sauce. The combination of eggplants and mushrooms made for an odd texture to the dish, but overall the taste was quite good. Again we see a simple preparation that works very well given the combination of ingredients.
Ikura Ochazuke
Izakaya Nonbei offers three different variations on its ochazuke, allowing the customer to choose between one of three toppings: salmon, ikura (salmon fish eggs), or ume (pickled plum). As I had already ordered a dish featuring salmon, I elected to try the Ikura Ochazuke. This is certainly another comfort food from my childhood. The subtle taste of the tea blends well with the sharp, salty taste of the ikura. The ochazuke was served with a side of wasabi, but I did not particularly care for the combination. Overall I loved this ochazuke, and would certainly order it again.
Final thoughts: Izakaya Nonbei does an exemplary job or preparing traditional Japanese cuisine in its simplest form. The true art of the food served at this restaurant is in its simplistic preparation, relying heavily on the natural flavors of the ingredients to please the palate as opposed to overloading it with seasoning. Service is very good and efficient. The atmosphere of the restaurant is indicative of an old style Japanese inn, which really gets you into the mood for the food to come. All told we walked away with a tab of $35 (before tip), which was not bad at all considering the quality of the food we enjoyed. Izakaya Nobei is definitely one of my favorite izakaya (”pub” style as some like to call it) restaurants.
| Service: |   |
Above Average |
| Food: |  |
Above Average + |
| Atmosphere: | |
Above Average |
| Overall Value: | |
Above Average + |
*Star ratings are based in comparison to similar establishments
Izakaya Nonbei
3108 Olu Street (off Kapahulu Ave) Honolulu, HI 96816
Phone: 808.734.5573
Tags: Hawaii Food, Hawaii Food Review, Izakaya Nonbei review, Gourmet Magazine, Izakaya, Japanese pub
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